KIRINDY FOREST: A CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH MADAGASCAR’S RARE SPECIES

Fossa, the largest mammalian carnivore on Madagascar
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The Night Before

VISITING KIRINDY FOREST- how it began. After early breakfast and the worst sleep, we had in months, we drove to the entrance of the park which is about 15min from Relais Du Kirindy Resort. Getting back to why had such an awful night … As we found out in the morning there was a celebration or party of some sort in memory of someone passing away. This is common in Malagasy culture and means throwing a huge celebration to honor their dead known as Famadihana. It is an occasion to give ancestors the love, attention and care they need, until they are able to continue their spiritual journey.

During the ceremony, loved ones’ graves are exhumed and the bodies are carefully wrapped in special straw mats. A procession will then take place, with families carrying their loved ones above their heads back to the village or a special place where the ceremony continues.

Once the ancestors have been cared for and dressed, a huge feast is held in their honor. The turning of the bones, festival is more like a family reunion than a funeral, and it is believed that the spirits of those who have died love a good party just as much as the living.

There will be plenty of food, live music and dancing. Sometimes families will even dance with the bodies of their ancestors, in a joyous celebration of the people they love.

Culturally, Famadihana is an extremely important death ritual. Family members can travel for days on foot to their ancestral family crypt or grave, where the ceremony will take place. Often the whole village or community will perform Famadihana at the same time.

The Relais Du Kirindy resort was really close to this event and the “music”, like some techno, trance style was blasting from the speakers until 3 am. Combine this with the tons of mosquitos in the room and you will get the idea how our night went.

The nets didn't stopped the mosquitos
The nets didn’t stopped the mosquitos

 

This one is a sneaky one :)
This one is a sneaky one 🙂

 

First Encounter with Lemurs

 

Our visit to Kirindy Forest in Morondava was a thrilling and unforgettable experience. Known as one of Madagascar’s top spots for wildlife, Kirindy Forest is home to some of the island’s most iconic creatures, including lemurs and the elusive fossa. As we ventured into the forest, we were excited about the possibility of seeing these incredible animals in their natural habitat—and Kirindy did not disappoint!

As we walked through the dry deciduous forest, the kids were the first to spot a group of sifaka lemurs leaping gracefully from tree to tree. It was our first sighting of lemurs on our trip around Madagascar, and it was a moment filled with awe and excitement. The sifakas, with their white fur and long, powerful legs, seemed to defy gravity as they moved effortlessly through the trees. The kids were mesmerized, watching the lemurs’ playful antics and listening to their calls echo through the forest.

Cute furry things
Cute furry things

Our guide shared fascinating insights about the lemurs, explaining how they are unique to Madagascar and play a crucial role in the ecosystem. We learned that there are over 100 species of lemurs on the island )107 to pe exact), each with its own distinct behaviors and characteristics. The kids were eager to learn more, asking questions about the lemurs’ diet, social structure, and how they care for their young.

Brown lemur
Brown lemur

 

The Fossa: Madagascar’s Apex Predator

 

As we continued our trek, our guide suddenly motioned for us to stop and be very quiet. Just ahead, we spotted a fossa, Madagascar’s largest carnivore and a formidable predator. The fossa is an elusive creature, and seeing one in the wild is a rare and special experience. The fossa’s sleek, muscular body and cat-like movements were captivating, and we watched in silence as it prowled through the underbrush.

Our guide explained that fossae are expert hunters, capable of taking down animals much larger than themselves, including lemurs. The kids were both fascinated and a little bit intimidated by the fossa, but it was a thrilling encounter that gave us a deeper appreciation for Madagascar’s unique and diverse wildlife.

Fossa
Fossa

Tips for Visiting Kirindy Forest:

  • Take a Guided Night Walk: While daytime walks are excellent for spotting lemurs and other animals, a guided night walk offers a completely different experience. Kirindy Forest is teeming with nocturnal creatures, including the elusive aye-aye, giant jumping rats, and various species of chameleons. The kids found the night walk particularly exciting as the forest comes alive with sounds and movements after dark.
  • Bring Binoculars and a Good Camera: Wildlife spotting in Kirindy requires patience and a keen eye. Bringing binoculars will help you spot animals in the treetops, and a camera with a good zoom is essential for capturing those close-up shots. The kids loved using their binoculars to get a better look at the lemurs and birds.
  • Wear Appropriate Clothing: The forest can be hot and humid, so wear lightweight, breathable clothing. Sturdy walking shoes are a must, as the terrain can be uneven. Don’t forget a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen to protect against the sun, and bring insect repellent to ward off mosquitoes.
  • Respect the Wildlife: It’s important to remember that Kirindy Forest is a protected area, and the wildlife here is delicate and vulnerable. Teach your children to observe the animals quietly and from a distance, and never attempt to feed or touch the wildlife.
  • Park entrance fee 50.000 MGA/per person + 50.000 MGA guide for the whole group (mandatory). So 11€/pp for entrance and 11€/guide for all of us.

 

Where to Stay Near Kirindy Forest

We stayed at a nearby eco-lodge, Relais Du Kirindy, which provided basic accommodations and easy access to the forest. All the lodges in the area offer guided tours, night walks, and other activities that enhance the experience. Staying close to the forest allowed us to make the most of our time in Kirindy, with early morning and late afternoon walks providing the best opportunities for wildlife sightings.

Breakfast in Relais De Kirindy
Breakfast in Relais Du Kirindy

 

Final Thoughts

Our visit to Kirindy Forest was another one of the highlights of our Madagascar adventure. From our first encounter with the lemurs to the thrilling sight of the fossa, every moment in the forest was filled with wonder and excitement. The kids left with a newfound respect for wildlife and a deeper understanding of Madagascar’s unique ecosystems.

If you’re planning a trip to Madagascar, Kirindy Forest is a must-visit destination. Whether you’re a wildlife enthusiast, a nature lover, or a family looking for an unforgettable adventure, Kirindy offers a chance to experience Madagascar’s rich biodiversity up close and personal.

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This is the blog about traveling trips that we have always dreamt of. My wife and I decided to continue our lives the way we have always wanted, even after our kids were born. We met during our student years, working at the biggest cinema multiplex in Ljubljana, Slovenia. We have both studied to become teachers, which we became a few years after we met each other. Since then my wife Tina continues to work as teacher while I went in completely opposite direction. We got married in 2007 and after two years we had our beautiful boy Svit. In 2012 we were blessed with a lovely daughter named Nia, preemie born in 27th week of pregnancy.

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