PIRATE TALES AND TROPICAL TRAILS: A JOURNEY THROUGH ÎLE SAINTE-MARIE

Humpback Whale breaching near Saint Marie Island, Madagascar
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Pirate tales and tropical trails: Nestled off the coast of Madagascar, Île Sainte-Marie, or Nosy Boraha, is a tropical paradise that offers a perfect blend of adventure, history, and tranquility. Recently, we had the pleasure of spending five unforgettable days on this island, staying in the serene Villas de Vohilava. Here’s a detailed account of our stay, filled with tips, experiences, and the must-see spots that made our trip truly special.

Day 1: Arrival and Settling into Vohilava Villas

After a scenic 10 boat ride from neighboring Ile Aux Nattes we arrived at Lavarange Restaurant that also serves as reception for Villas. Our home for the next four nights was the beautiful Vohilava Villas, a collection of charming bungalows nestled along a pristine stretch of beach.

Emerald Vila

Why Vohilava Villas? The decision to stay at Vohilava Villas was one of the best we made. The villas are not only comfortable but also perfectly located, providing easy access to the island’s attractions. Each morning, we woke up to the sound of waves gently lapping the shore, and every evening, we were treated to stunning sunsets right from our veranda.

There were kids running around all day and they eagerly awaited our return each time so they can play with Svit and Nia.

New friends at Vohilava Villas
New friends at Vohilava Villas
They've waited for us every day to return from day trips
They waited for us every day to return from day trips
La Varangue Restaurant, Vohilava Villas
La Varangue Restaurant, Vohilava Villas

Tip:

  • Book a beachfront villa to fully enjoy the panoramic ocean views. The staff is incredibly accommodating, so don’t hesitate to ask for any special arrangements to make your stay more comfortable. We could see whales beaching out while having cold beer on our porch.

Day 2: Exploring the Island on a Scooter

To truly experience the island’s charm, we rented a scooter to explore Île Sainte-Marie at our own pace. This was, without a doubt, one of the highlights of our trip. The island’s roads, while a bit bumpy at times, offer a scenic route through lush greenery, quaint villages, and stunning coastlines.

Waterfall trip
Waterfall trip
Local Tavern with great pizza
Local Tavern with great pizza

Scooter Rental Tips:

  • Safety First: While the island’s roads are relatively quiet, they can be uneven, so make sure to wear a helmet and drive cautiously.
  • Explore the North: We headed north toward the quieter areas of the island, where we discovered hidden beaches and unspoiled nature. It’s a great way to escape the more touristy spots and see the island’s raw beauty.
  • Refuel: Gas stations are sparse, so keep an eye on your fuel gauge and fill up whenever you have the chance.
  • We have rented our scooter at the receptions since they are working with the local rental providers (7€/day/scooter).
  • Download an offline GPS app (like Maps.me), as cellular service can be patchy in certain parts of the island.

Day 3: A Step Back in Time at the Pirate Cemetery

No visit to Île Sainte-Marie would be complete without a trip to the legendary Pirate Cemetery, a site steeped in history and mystery. Located on the southern tip of the island, this cemetery is the final resting place of several pirates who roamed the Indian Ocean during the 17th and 18th centuries.

The Experience: Walking through the cemetery felt like stepping back in time. The weathered tombstones, some marked with skull and crossbones, tell stories of a bygone era when the island was a haven for pirates. The cemetery is perched on a hill, offering panoramic views of the ocean—a fitting resting place for those who lived their lives at sea.

Entrance to the Cemetery
Entrance to the Cemetery

Tip:

  • Visit during the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the heat and get the best light for photography. Hiring a local guide can also enhance your experience, as they share fascinating stories and historical insights.

Day 4: Whale Watching – An Unforgettable Encounter

The absolute highlight of our trip was the whale-watching excursion. Île Sainte-Marie is one of the best places in the world to see humpback whales, and we were fortunate enough to visit during their migration season.

Setting Out: We embarked on an afternoon boat trip with a Cetamada a non-profit association for the conservation of marine mammals and their habitat in Madagascar who also specializes in responsible whale watching. The excitement on board was palpable as we cruised into the open waters, scanning the horizon for signs of these magnificent creatures.

The Encounter: After about an hour at sea, we spotted a mother whale and her calf. Watching these gentle giants breach and play in the water was a breathtaking experience that words can hardly describe. The guides were knowledgeable and respectful of the whales, ensuring that we observed them from a safe and non-intrusive distance.

Tip:

  • If you’re visiting between July and September, don’t miss out on a whale-watching trip. Book your tour in advance, as spots can fill up quickly during the peak season. Don’t forget to bring sunscreen, a hat, and binoculars for the best experience.
  • Cost: 50€/adult, 25€/kids

Day 5: Relaxation and Departure

On our final day, we took the time to relax and soak in the last moments on this beautiful island. A leisurely breakfast on the beach, a dip in the crystal-clear waters, and a final stroll through the local markets made for a perfect end to our trip.

Final Thoughts: Île Sainte-Marie exceeded all our expectations. From the peaceful stay at Vohilava Villas to the thrill of exploring the island on a scooter and the awe-inspiring whale-watching experience, every moment was a reminder of the island’s unique charm. Whether you’re seeking adventure, history, or simply a tranquil escape, Île Sainte-Marie offers something for everyone.

Every evening we were blissed with the most beautiful sunsets on Saint Marie Island
Every evening we were blissed with the most beautiful sunsets on Saint Marie Island

Practical Tips for Your Trip to Île Sainte-Marie:

  1. Best Time to Visit: The dry season from May to October is ideal, with cooler temperatures and better conditions for activities like whale watching.
  2. Getting Around: Renting a scooter or bicycle is the best way to explore the island. Taxis and tuk-tuks are also available
  3. Local Cuisine: Don’t miss out on trying the fresh seafood, especially the local dish “Romazava,” a traditional Malagasy stew.
  4. Packing Essentials: Bring plenty of sunscreen, insect repellent, and light, breathable clothing. A waterproof bag is also handy for beach days and boat trips.
  5. Take a plane: at least on one direction. It saves you tones of time so you can enjoy here longer. The flight takes just about one hour and it’s a morning one so you’ll have a whole day ahead of you.

Sadly, our time for exploring and enjoying this charming and rustic island has come to an end. Thankfully we booked the plane back to Tana, because we really couldn’t endure two more days on the road on a way back to capital city. Since Vohilava Villas are just 5 minutes with tuk-tuk from the airport, we didn’t need to leave very early and at around 9am we were already in back to where we’ve began this great adventure, in Antananarivo.

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This is the blog about traveling trips that we have always dreamt of. My wife and I decided to continue our lives the way we have always wanted, even after our kids were born. We met during our student years, working at the biggest cinema multiplex in Ljubljana, Slovenia. We have both studied to become teachers, which we became a few years after we met each other. Since then my wife Tina continues to work as teacher while I went in completely opposite direction. We got married in 2007 and after two years we had our beautiful boy Svit. In 2012 we were blessed with a lovely daughter named Nia, preemie born in 27th week of pregnancy.

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