Leaving Isalo: A Farewell to Madagascar’s Wild West
Cross-Country drive: after an unforgettable experience in Isalo National Park, we continued our journey across Madagascar, heading towards the lush rainforests of Andasibe. This trip took us through some of the country’s most diverse landscapes and vibrant towns. Along the way, we made stops in Fianarantsoa and Antsirabe, each offering its own unique charm and cultural richness. In a total the drive to Andasibe National Park lasted a good 25 hours spread between tree days and two overnight stays.
Departing from the rugged landscapes of Isalo National Park, we were both excited and a little wistful. The stark beauty of Isalo had left a lasting impression, but the road ahead promised new adventures. Our route took us north, winding through Madagascar’s central highlands—a journey that would reveal the country’s cultural heartland and more stunning scenery.
First Stop: Fianarantsoa – Exploring Madagascar’s Historic Soul
Our first stop was Fianarantsoa, a city often regarded as the cultural and intellectual heart of Madagascar. We did a last-minute change as our driver suggested and skipped Ranomafana Park. Arriving in the late afternoon, we checked into Tsara Guest House (what a gem this was) and set down in the beautiful garden to have some local rum drinks. After few drinks and since the sun didn’t set down yet we’ve decided to explore the Old Town. Fianarantsoa’s Old Town is a labyrinth of narrow streets and steep staircases, with a history that dates back to the 19th century. It is located just few minutes on foot from the guesthouse.
A Walk-Through History in the Old Town
As we wandered through the cobbled streets, we were transported back in time. The Old Town is dotted with historic buildings, churches, and traditional Malagasy houses, all perched on the hillside with views overlooking the city. The area is also known for its vibrant arts scene, and we stumbled upon several local artisans selling beautifully crafted goods.
The evening was quiet, with the fading light casting a golden hue over the terracotta rooftops. We made our way to the top of the hill, where the old cathedral stands, and were rewarded with panoramic views of the city below. It was a peaceful end to the day, with the calm atmosphere of the Old Town providing a stark contrast to the bustling cities we had visited earlier on our trip.
Second Stop: Antsirabe – The Thermal City
The next morning, we set off for Antsirabe, Madagascar’s third-largest city and a popular stopover for travelers journeying through the highlands. Antsirabe is known for its cooler climate, thermal springs, and colonial architecture, making it a fascinating destination with a distinct character.
Discovering Antsirabe’s Charm
We arrived in Antsirabe again in late afternoon, and after checking into our Eco Lodge Les Chambres du Voyageur, we decided to skip the. Instead, we went for a nice dinner when we had the opportunity to relax and chat with our guide Rivo, who after few days on the road became more than that to us. The food at Chey Jenny was excellent and not expensive at all.
Tree-lined wide avenues and colonial-era buildings give Antsirabe a European feel, a legacy of its past as a French colonial town. The city is also famous for its rickshaws, known as “Pousse Pousse,” which are a popular mode of transport here.
Our first stop was the local market, a bustling hub of activity where vendors sell everything from fresh produce to handmade crafts. We couldn’t resist picking up a few souvenirs, including some beautifully carved wooden figurines and vibrant textiles.
Antsirabe is also renowned for thermal springs which are believed to have therapeutic properties, and while we didn’t take a dip, it was interesting to learn about the city’s history as a spa destination.
If you have the time to spare you can enjoy a leisurely stroll around Lake Tritriva, a volcanic lake located just outside the city. The lake’s deep blue waters and surrounding cliffs made for a picturesque setting, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploration.
Final Destination: Andasibe – Into the Heart of Madagascar’s Rainforest
After our restful night in Antsirabe, we set off for the final leg of our journey to Andasibe, home to some of Madagascar’s most famous national parks and the iconic Indri lemur. The drive took us through the highlands and narrow roads filled with trucks and eventually into the lush rainforests of the east. The change in scenery was dramatic, with the dry landscapes of the interior giving way to dense, verdant forests.
Arriving in Andasibe: A Gateway to Madagascar’s Wildlife
We arrived in Andasibe in the evening, just in time for a quick check of the Andasibe Cyperus Hotel grounds and pool. We were really tired from the long drive (another 9 hours) and after dinner we just went to bed since the anticipation was building as we knew that the following day would be dedicated to exploring Andasibe’s rainforests and searching for the Indri, the largest of the lemurs in Madagascar.
Tips for the Road: Making the Most of Your Journey:
- Plan Your Stops: The drive from Isalo to Andasibe is long, so breaking it up with stops in Fianarantsoa and Antsirabe is a great way to explore more of Madagascar while avoiding travel fatigue.
- Walking Shoes Are a Must: Both Fianarantsoa’s Old Town and Antsirabe’s markets and lakes are best explored on foot. Comfortable walking shoes are essential.
- Stay Hydrated and Pack Snacks: The highland roads can be winding and slow-going, so it’s a good idea to have water and snacks on hand, especially if you’re traveling with kids.
- Book Accommodation in Advance: Both Fianarantsoa and Antsirabe offer a range of accommodations, but it’s wise to book ahead, especially during peak travel season.
- Learn Some Basic Malagasy: While French is widely spoken, knowing a few phrases in Malagasy can go a long way in connecting with locals and making your journey more enjoyable.
- Nights are cold: wear layers after dark and be prepared for cold nights. In Antsirabe we had electrical heater turned on during the night!
Final Thoughts
Our road trip from Isalo to Andasibe was an incredible journey through the diverse landscapes and cultures of Madagascar. From the historic streets of Fianarantsoa to the thermal springs of Antsirabe and finally into the rainforests of Andasibe, each stop offered something unique and memorable. Whether you’re a nature lover, a history buff, or simply looking to experience the rich culture of Madagascar, this route has something for everyone.
