The drive to Mahambo: The final part of our journey was rapidly approaching so today was the day when we set to move to the East coast of the island from where we would take the boat to our final destination. Island of Sainte Marie and its nonboring small brother Aux Nattes were the place where we’ll part with our driver and say goodbye to exhausting but still fun long car drives.
We were reminded that this will be the longest and the hardest drive on the whole road. And oh, yes this was the day Edita had her birthday, so the drive started in good spirits with singing and giving her the b-day gift. Little did she knew that after 14 hours the day won’t end on such a high note as expected.
Navigating Madagascar’s Treacherous RN2: A Road Trip from Andasibe to Mahambo
Driving through Madagascar can be an adventure in itself, and the journey from Andasibe to Mahambo via Antananarivo and Toamasina is no exception. Covering approximately 400 kilometers, this route takes you along the RN2, one of the main arteries of the island but also one of the most challenging. The scenic landscapes are undeniable, but so are the bad road conditions, slow-moving vehicles, and frequent accidents that make the drive a true test of patience and skill.
Starting in Andasibe, a serene rainforest town known for its lush greenery and diverse wildlife, you embark on the RN2 with hopes of reaching Mahambo, a place of our overnight stay before hopping on a ferry early next morning. However, as you soon discover, the drive is far from smooth. The first challenge presents itself almost immediately: the narrow, winding roads that snake through the central highlands. Here, the asphalt is often cracked and riddled with potholes, forcing drivers to zigzag across lanes in a desperate attempt to avoid the worst of the damage. Each bump and jolt are a reminder of the poor infrastructure that plagues much of Madagascar’s road network.
As you approach Antananarivo, the capital city, traffic begins to thicken. The hustle and bustle of the city make for a slow crawl through its congested streets. Antananarivo is notorious for its chaotic traffic, where the roads are shared by a mix of cars, motorcycles, bicycles, and pedestrians, all vying for space. This congestion extends to the outskirts, where you finally merge back onto the RN2, now headed towards Toamasina, the largest port city in Madagascar.
This stretch of the journey is where the real challenges begin. The RN2 is a vital trade route, and as such, it is dominated by slow-moving trucks carrying everything from construction materials to agricultural products. These trucks, often heavily loaded and struggling with the steep inclines and sharp bends, significantly slow down traffic. Passing them is a nerve-wracking experience, as the narrow lanes and blind curves provide little visibility and even less room for error.
Adding to the danger are the frequent accidents that occur along this route. It’s not uncommon to see the remnants of a collision—an overturned truck or a car that has veered off the road—serving as a grim reminder of the risks involved. The combination of bad road conditions, overburdened trucks, and impatient drivers often leads to accidents, some of which can be quite severe. The lack of proper road maintenance and safety measures only exacerbates the problem.
As you finally approach Toamasina, the landscape begins to change, giving way to coastal plains and the promise of the Indian Ocean. However, the road conditions remain poor, with stretches of the RN2 reduced to little more than dirt and gravel. Despite the challenges, the journey continues, now with the added burden of fatigue. The constant vigilance required to navigate the treacherous roads takes its toll, making the drive feel much longer than it actually is.
The final leg of the journey from Toamasina to Mahambo is both a relief and a test of endurance. The road hugs the coastline, offering stunning views of the ocean, but the potholes and ruts remain a constant companion. The closer you get to Mahambo, the more isolated the road becomes, with fewer vehicles and more stretches of untamed wilderness. By the time we’ve reached our destination, the more exhausted we were and our nerves frayed from the long hours of slow and careful driving.
We still needed a place for a sleepover so our pick was La Pirogue, from where we could easily walk along the beach to the boarding zone for the ferry to Island of Saint Marie. As you can read in our TA review of this place this was one of the worst experiences in all of our traveling years. We slept as dressed as we were for 14h in the since we didn’t want to dirty our fresh clothes or catch bedbugs. The sound of rodents chewing everything around us stayed in our heads for days.
